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Our recommended restaurants in paris
Whatever your taste and mood, from bistros to terraces, from Japanese to deli cuisine, our top picks will satisfy your every craving.
LE 58
The location of Le 58, the recently renamed (it was formerly known as Altitude 95) and completely remodelled second restaurant of the Eiffel Tower might not be quite as lofty as the famous Le Jules Verne, but its menu was also conceived by chef Alain Ducasse though its prices are closer to the ground, white the chic post-industrial décor is signed by Patrick Jouin, who also did the Jules Verne. There’s another big difference between the two tables, and that is the crowd at Le 58 actually seem to be having a good time (delicious though the food may be at the Jules Verne, it’s a very serious restaurant). Against a back drop of laughter and conversation in a dozen different languages, we also had a surprisingly good meal (truth be told, we weren’t expecting much given the complicated logistics of cooking in midair and the challenge of feeding hundreds of people daily) during an early summer dinner here, and the view of the Seine and the Trocadéro was lovely. Go with the good value all-inclusive (three courses and drinks) 80-euro menu, or a la carte. If the smoked Salmon was too salty, an Alaska king crab and avocado cocktail was a perfect summer starter, followed by chicken with green asparagus and more) mushrooms or roasted cod with a tian of vegetables. Finish up with the vanilla and raspberry vacherin, and come for dinner instead of lunch, which is often crowded. Le 58, first floor via piliers Nord and Est, 08.25.56.66.62.
LA TABLE D’EUGENE
Paris’s hottest new bistro is tucked away in a quiet Montmartre neighborhood that’s worth travelling to if you want a great feed and a good time. The two smart young chefs in the kitchen, Geoffrey Maillard and Francois Vaudeschamps, are serving up the sort of excellent and very cosmopolitan contemporary bistro cooking that Parisians are craving right now, which is why this pretty almond-green dining room is always packed. The chalkboard menu changes regularly but run to starters like grilled chipirons (tiny squid) on a bed of arugula with dried tomatoes and risotto with a generous garnish of wild mushrooms, and main courses such as duck breast with mozzarella stuffed cherry tomatoes and veal chop with a baked potato spread with a paste of sobrasada (the Mallorcan sausage that’s one of the most popular ingredients in young-chef land these days). Two or three times during this meal I feel the sudden sensual quickening that comes from any really good meal, and in this case it was so precise that it reminded me of why I decided to settle in Paris in the first place, the passionately love of good food, great wine, the worldly banter of good service, and the pleasure of eye-balling an elegantly dressed crowd. Expect a fun, young, arty crowd. 18 rue Eugène-Sue,18th, 01.42.55.61.64.
PICNIC CENTRAL
Now that the sun is out, it’s a pleasure to picnic in Paris, and a great one-stop address to provision yourself for a déjeuner sur l’herbe is the West Café. Inspired by New York City delicatessens, owner Frédéric Elias opened his café in 1990, and takes pride in selling the same kind of generously filled sandwiches (on bagels, sliced bread or as wraps) that he loved during trips to the U.S. Our favorites from his extensive menu include the barbecued chicken and bacon wrap, the smoked salmon bagel, and smoked turkey and guacamole on organic bread. They also sell salads, drinks and delicious chocolate chip cookies. Perfect for picnics, the Westside is also a great idea before a train or plane trip. Westside Café, 34 rue Saint-Ferdinand, 17th, 01.40.68.75.05,
GUILO-GUILO
Really first-rate Japanese food is rare in Paris, which is why fans of this country’s delicate and delicious cooking will want to make a beeline for Guilo-Guilo, a hugely popular new restaurant in Montmartre with an edgy decor by rising design star Christophe Pillet. Seated at the counter here, you’ll discover the superb cooking of chef Eiichi Edakuni, who’s already a major star in his hometown of Kyoto. The charming Edakuni, who cooks before your eyes and who graciously explains each dish as it is served, changes his set menu regularly, but you can expect a delicious suite of dishes like tempura of New Caledonian shrimp with corn sauce and mango, a plume Gillardeau oyster paired with a deep-fried chicken liver and served with a seaweed and sesame seed salad, white miso soup with a sardine dumpling, and charred mackerel with seaweed and codfish eggs. My favo&rite dish during a recent dinner, though, was a brilliant Franco-Japanese beignet of foie gras and crunchy slices of taro root with a sauce of mirin (sweet Japanese cooking wine). Reserve here as far in advance as possible, since this tiny table is a big hit. 8 rue Garneau, 18th, 01.42.54.23.92
LES JARDINS PLEIN CIEL
If few things are lovelier than dining al fresco on a warm summer’s night in Paris, the challenge is finding a quiet, pretty setting where you’Il also eat good food. An open-air summer lunch with a superb view of Paris is found at Les Jardins Plein Ciel on the top floor of the Hotel Raphael. The menu offers a variety of wonderful choices, including cod, orange and mint salad to start, perhaps followed by lamb en brochette with Provençale herbs and sweet garlic cream, and a tempting assortment of pastries for dessert. Hotel Raphael, Les Jardins Plein Ciel, 17 ave Kléber,16th, 01.53.64.32.00.
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